Hopefully this will do it for re-securing the roof structure. The alternative is really bad... remove the doors, then use a jack to lift the roof (and break the glass) while you glue in a replacement. Luckliy, this structure isn't too bad.
While the torsion bars are out, the roof seals will be renewed - a job that, in my opinion, is only feasible with the torsion bars out, not to mention safer (you don't want to scrape those bars during driling or riveting)! Also, the ancient sealant along the metal-fiberglass joints will be scraped away and replaced.
These three-inch bolts go right through the fiberglass an are thoroughly sealed. They will be completely hidden by the t-panel and the headliner.
The metal roof structure: cleaned, painted, and re-sealed at the joints. The inner cavity was treated with Waxoyl before sealing the cap plate back on. Note that scuffing along the inner edge of the door...
Here's a nasty scuff mark from where the door has been hitting the t-panel for who knows how many years. That black is NOT grease... it's the light reflecting off of the cross-grain marks!
And here is the same angle (close enough) five minutes later after using my texturing tool on the blemish. It's factory fresh now.